A PC Wine Industry
A new restaurant opened in my neighborhood and I, for one, was very excited for it. Boutique wines, a one-chef kitchen with fresh, never-frozen ingredients and an avant garde menu, and a beautiful yet simple decor. My place, all the way.
I had scoped out their website and their menu before I first dined there and, after spotting their beverage list (heavy on the small-production Belgian imports and hard-to-find French wines.... can you say "sauvignon blanc from Burgundy?" Who knew???) I was very excited to drink/dine.
Any excitement dissipated and quickly turned to disappointment with my first conversation with the bartender/sommellier. Condescending, uppity, and down right snobby, this girl spent the entire meal talking about herself, her education, her wine knowledge, and the wines on her wine list. Never, not once, did she stop to listen to what her customers had to say. Any knowledge they had, anything they brought to the table, she shot down and topped with some other out-of-my-back-pocket wine fact that she was certain her customers had never heard of.
I observed with amusement and started thinking. This woman was knowledgeable, educated, and had an excellent palate. She had created an amazing wine list and clearly had a talent for pairings. The ability was there. The people skills? Nonexistent.
And I realized, at that moment, that this might be everything wrong with the wine world. This might be exactly why people are turned off by wines, why they are intimidated by the industry and everything it entails, and why many people never "get into" wine. And, in the business sense, it might be what costs you money.
An employee's vast amounts of knowledge is only as good as their presentation of the material. The wine world is already stereotyped as snooty... someone selling you wine with these characteristics only perpetuates this stereotype and continues to dissuade people from enjoying what I consider to be an amazing world of tastes, history, and culture.
So... what do we in the retail wine industry do? Do we act as teachers for those who want to learn about wine, while running the risk of turning into a long-winded salesperson? Do we go the extra mile and admit that we actually love Opus One (even though we agree that it's quality has gone down and it is overpriced) but in the same conversation consent that Two Buck Chuck indeed deserves its ranking in last year's California State Fair as a top chardonnay because fair is fair and it was judged to be as good as other California whites by some reputable judges? Do we admit that Merlot isn't as bad as Sideways made it out to be (thank you, Carr for your amazing Merlot) and tell people to stop fitting wine profiles into neat little boxes? Do we give the industry a big shove, show our customers the "steals" and talk them out of the overrated wines? Or... do we not say anything at all, because talking wine and sharing your knowledge will always, always be considered condescending and elitist?
I don't know, my friends. But I do know that at the end of the day, a wine consultant that is overly-eager to share their knowledge with the wrong person can come across as full of themselves, and in the process of satisfying their own desire to share their wealth of knowledge from the wine world, they can end up humiliating those they are trying to help. As one who worked in a wine store for years, I watched this happen on a daily basis. And to be fair, the customers are just as guilty of this wine crime: I've definitely seen a few too many "educated" customers tell a wine consultant "a thing or two" about the wine world while the other employees looked on in amazement.
So what do we do? How do we reach a point where we can share our experiences, and our amazing wines, with others without coming across as condescending? After contemplating this for the last week, the only conclusion I can come to is that we work in an industry where we must choose our words wisely. For many, many historical, political, and social reasons, the wine world is a touchy one with a lot of sensitive folks. Encourage your employees to treat each customer with respect and never judge... yes, even when they ask for white zinfandel.
